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My budget for Italy (and the rest of the year for that matter) was very tight. If you ever find yourself around the Lake Como district with a nagging feeling that with your budget probably didn't even allow you going on the trip - but there you are anyway - try:
Stay:
In Riva al Lago
Via Crespi, 4 /p.zza Matteotti 4, 22100 Como
A Bed & Breakfast (alas no breakfast during off-peak months), very affordable, clean & surprisingly un-kitsch for Italy, situated less than 20m from the lake.
Eat:
Breakfast
Let's be honest, in Italy you'll rarely get a hearty omelette or nutritious muesli for breakfast. Como has dozens of typical Italian standing cafes where you can get an excellent cappuccino and croissant ('brioche') for around 2 euros (which automatically goes up to 3 euros as soon as you sit on a chair at a table. Opt for the table and enjoy people-watching.
Dinner
El Merendero
Via Crespi 4, 22100 Como
Stay away from anywhere with a menu in 4 different languages and horribly-styled pictures of the dishes, offering a 'tourist menu' (often with a surprise 10 euros worth of service fees and taxes added to the bill). We were lucky to find a great & affordable restaurant full of locals right under our accommodation with amazing, perfectly thin-based woodfire pizzas without an excess of toppings.
Do:
- Buy a ferry day ticket & spend the day hopping around the towns on the southern part of Lake Como (see previous post). Definitely visit Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo and walk around Bellagio - preferably at sunset.
- Take the Como Funicular up the mountain & hike down.
- Wander around the city of Como - the cathedral, wonderful little delis (enough temptation to bring back a bag full of Grana cheese, truffle oil & Chianti), cafes and boutiques. It's clear that Como is an area for the rich.
- Do a day trip (or two) to Milan and Lugano (Switzerland) - both short train trips away.
